Sunday, March 11, 2012

01-29-12 English Mild (Cask) - William's Brewing beer kits

This is the second beer we have done at home.  We decided to try casking this beer.  This is another William’s Brewery malt extract beer – this time for an English Mild.
Saturday, January 28, 2012
Tony started experimenting with the cask using water. 
Sunday, January 29, 2012
We are brewing a William’s Brewery malt extract English Mild today.  This beer will be the first beer that we cask.
We used the Wyeast packet of 1028 London Ale (mfg date: 12/06/11) that came in the packet.  We smacked the pack at around 1:45 PM.  We also put the bag of malt extract into lukewarm water to soften it up before we put it into the boiler.  We had an issue with this the last time as it was somewhat difficult to get the extract to come out when it was at basement temperature.
We boiled 4 gallons of purified water (we purified 5 gallons of water last week and stored it sealed in preparation for the brewing as our water purifier can only purify so much at a time.)  Water was boiling by 2:12 PM.  Wort was added at about 2:15 pm.  While it was easier to pour it out warm, these plastic bags are not ideal for pouring out malt.
Malt was brought back up to a boil and boiled for 5 minutes.  Bittering hops were added at 2:36 PM.
Aromatic hops were added 5 minutes before the end of the boil.  Once we finished the boil, we washed the wort chiller and put it in the wort, connecting one end to the faucet and securing the other end into the sink.  We brought the temperature of the wort down below 85 degrees F.  We started the wort chiller at 3:41 PM.  The wort dropped to 84.9 degrees F at 3:59 PM.  It took 18 minutes.
We transferred the wort from the boiler to the fermenter, this time without a guiding tube and stirring it vigorously in order to properly aerate it.  Then we poured in boiled and cooled water to bring it up to 5 gallons.
We pitched the yeast at 4:12 PM.  We gave the beer a final vigorous stir and secured the lid onto the fermenter.  We then moved the fermenter into the basement, put it on top of another bucket, installed the airlock and filled 1/3 of the way up with vodka, and put the heating jacket on the fermenter.  We realized at this point that we forgot to get the Initial Gravity, so we reopened the fermenter and took the hydrometer reading.  Then we resealed the lid and let it do its business.
Initial gravity: 1.038
Saturday, February 11, 2012
Casking day!  Tony casked the beer on his own today.  The following are Tony’s notes on what he did.
As the batch of beer was 5 US gallons it was exactly the right volume to fill a pin with an appropriate breathing space. (A pin has a capacity of 4.5 UK gallons – 5.4 US gallons).
The beer in the fermenter was confirmed to be quiet and a sample of about 1/3 of a cup was taken from the tap in order to provide a rinse for the nozzle and for testing.
Final gravity was not taken, however, it was expected to be in the range of 1.018.
The sample tasted remarkably good with nice clarity. It was free of yeastiness in the taste and had a surprising level of body and complexity considering it was a green beer straight out of the fermenter.
I installed a plastic keystone to the pin and filled the pin fully to the shive hole with hot water and sanitizer. I let it stand for about 10 minutes, then I rinsed the pin with pre-boiled hot water.
The pin was placed adjacent to the fermenter and allowed to cool down. I cut a short length of plastic tube and sanitized it and fitted it to the fermenter tap with the other end entering the shive hole of the pin.
Then I added 1 tsp of Isinglass finings to about 1/3 of a cup of cool pre-boiled water in a sanitized measuring cup. I stirred the Isinglass solution to an even consistency.
Then I added 3 oz of the Williams priming sugar to just under ½ cup of hot pre-boiled water in a sanitized measuring jug. I stirred until all sugar was dissolved.
I then opened the fermenter tap fully to rack the beer into the pin. During racking, the priming sugar solution was added. When the beer had outflowed down to the level of the tap in the fermenter the fermenter was carefully stooped to extract the remaining beer. Racking was concluded at the point where yeast sediment could be seen to be approaching the tap within the fermenter.
Finings solution was then added to the pin.
Experimenting with the other pin it was found difficult to install a plastic shive satisfactorily. Therefore a wooden shive was installed to the pin. Pin was then shaken quite vigorously. Some fobbing/leakage was noticed around the shive. I left the pin alone for 10 minutes and shook and rolled over again. No leakage noted as shive had apparently swollen naturally and sealed successfully.
Pin placed on stillage in guest bedroom to undergo secondary fermentation at room temperature.
Saturday, February 25, 2012, 3:30 pm
We broached the shive by banging out the tut and tapped the cask.  Very little CO2 seemed to come out.  Tony was a bit disappointed by this.  The beer tasted fairly good and there does appear to be a slight bit of conditioning on it, but perhaps less than we would like.  We’ll see how the conditioning goes.
We put a soft spile in the shive and carried if very carefully upstairs.  We placed it on the floor for dispense from the beer engine.  We will probably be serving this one at the party tomorrow.  We have put the jacket on it but not the ice blanket just yet.
Sunday, February 26th, 2012
We tasted a bit the previous evening and again this morning.  The beer’s flavor is gradually improving and we are anticipating for this to be a decent beer.  The beer is under-conditioned and we will have to look into this.
Sunday, March 11, 2012
The beer went over very well with the guests at the party.  We continued to have pints of it until about Wednesday after the party.  The beer continued to improve quite a bit over the next day or two after the party.  After that, it did start to go south a bit.  Given this experience, for the next party, we plan to broach the shive two days before the party as it appears this amount of time gives the best result for the readiness of the beer.
Tony has had a few conversations with Paul Pendyck from UK Brewing (based in Lancaster, Pennsylvania) at this point and seems to have gotten some ideas on how to fix our under-conditioning issue.  We purchased our pins from Northern Brewer.  Geenmacher is the make.  As it turns out, this brand is made in China and the shive hole is slightly too small for standard-sized shives.  As such, when Tony hammered in the shives with the wooden mallet, he had found that they did not go in quite far enough and did not go flush with the hole.  This also explains the struggles he had with the plastic shives described above.  So, while the pins were liquid-leak proof, we highly suspect they weren’t quite air-leak proof.  Of course, this would result in the under-conditioning of the beer.
­­­­Paul Pendyck had some shives that he had ordered specifically for this problem.  Tony ordered some of these shives from UK Brewing.  After experimenting a bit with a pressure gage, Tony believes that we have solved our problem.  We will be brewing another William’s Bitter brew kit and casking it in order to do a test run on a malt extract beer we already know has turned out well in bottles to test the effectiveness of the pin with the new shives.  Stay tuned.

No comments:

Post a Comment